Grape Expectations

Sept. 14 to 20 is Colorado Wine Week, with local wineries and restaurants hosting special events across the state. MyDenver sat down with Xander Sommers, Court of Master Sommeliers and General Manager of Bonnie Brae Liquor, as well as Will Flowers, a WSET 2 certified sommelier, to learn more about how they select the perfect wine for every occasion.

Today, they’re doing a tasting with Matteo Boffo, who grew up in Italy just outside Venice. After a career in Italian kitchens, Boffo turned his focus to wine and now works as a representative for Giuliana Wine Company, a wholesaler based in Denver with an extensive network of vineyards across Italy, Chile, France, Argentina, and beyond. Boffo has brought three red wines and one bottle of sparkling wine for Sommers and Flowers to taste from Piedmont in Italy, near the French border, and the Rioja wine region of Spain.

Boffo opens a bottle of Contratto Pas Dosé Millesimato Alta Langa DOCG, a sparkling wine from north of Piedmont, one of Italy’s most popular regions for “Metodo Classico”, which is made exactly like Champagne. He explains that a proprietary concoction of sugar and yeast turns the wine bubbly due to the pressure built up within the bottle. This particular winery estate, founded in 1867, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Imbued with a rich butteriness, the wine, Boffo explains, has no oak flavor; all the flavor and texture come purely from the grapes.

He then opens a bottle of Barbera D’Alba, a red wine also from Piedmont that’s light and fresh, with an almost cherry-like flavor. Boffo explains that Piedmont is world famous for its two wine appellations, legally defined and protected geographical regions where particular grapes are grown for specific wines. Champagne is an appellation, Bordeaux is an appellation, etc. Such appellations are part of a complex trade commission that transcends borders, governing the composition and methods of wine production, such as which grape varieties can be planted, maximum harvest yields, which direction the vineyards face (never north), how the wine is aged, and almost all other aspects of wine-making.

Boffo pours from the next bottle, Langhe Nebbiolo, a robust, fruit-forward red wine from the acclaimed winery La Spinetta in northwestern Piedmont that pairs perfectly with hearty meats such as lamb and duck. “Italian wines are bright, they’re vibrant, they’re very approachable and also extremely food-friendly,” Sommers says. Nebbiolo is the grape varietal that Piedmont is best known for and its name derives from nebbia, the Italian word for “fog,” which some say is a nod to the region’s romantic, misty hills during late harvest season.

Finally, Boffo switches from Italy to Spain and opens a bottle of Muga Reserva from 2021. Another historic estate, Muga was founded in 1932. The winery makes its own oak barrels, and its red wine has earthy notes from the clay soil native to the region. The wine is hearty and complements rich meat dishes such as ribeye steaks.

Sommers and Flowers are both experts on grape varietals, international vineyards, and the science behind the fermentation that goes into composing the perfect wine. As Boffo heads to his next tasting, they talk about their own preferences and how to determine one’s unique palate and flavor profile. Such knowledge is gained over time, through trial and error, but Bonnie Brae Liquor makes the process simple. Sommers and Flowers are always happy to help their clients choose the ideal wine, whether it’s to celebrate a major life event, or to be simply enjoyed during an intimate dinner at home. “What I love about wine is that it brings people together,” says Sommers.